Memories of Life in Brunei as a Gurkha Family - Mrs Nirupa Bantawa Rai (Brunei 1989, 1998, 2003) 

 “My first experience of living in Brunei was in 1989.  Although the weather was very hot, it was a wonderful time that I remember with great affection.  It was my first time living in Brunei after moving from the busy city of Hong Kong.  I found life there to be simple, peaceful, and full of happiness.  

One of my favourite memories was waking up early on Sunday mornings and walking to the Kampong Tuker Bazaar near Seria Town.  The market was always lively and was the best place to buy fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, and live kampong chickens at very reasonable prices.  Shopping there was not just about buying food; it was also a chance to meet friends and enjoy the warm and friendly local atmosphere.  

In those days, very few families owned a car, so bicycles were the most common form of transport.  It was a familiar sight to see people cycling everywhere.  Ramdhani’s Shop, located within the married quarters, was the lifeline of the Gurkha community.  Families bought their daily necessities there and often met neighbours for a friendly chat.  I also have fond memories of using the dhobi (laundry) service and visiting the regimental sunar (goldsmith) shop.  

Life revolved around the married quarters, where everyone knew one another and children could play safely together.  Many community activities brought families closer, including badminton tournaments, fun runs, gardening competitions, funfairs, trips to the capital city of Bandar Seri Begawan, and swimming events.  The swimming pool was always filled with laughter as families enjoyed spending time together, even though many of us were not very good swimmers. 

 One memory that will always remain close to my heart is the birth of our daughter.  Every day, my husband cycled all the way from the Tuker Line married quarters to Panaga Hospital, carrying homemade soup and food for me.  Looking back, I realise how much love and dedication those daily journeys showed.  It is a precious memory that I will treasure forever. 

 When we returned to Brunei for our second and third tours in 1998 and 2003, the country had changed remarkably.  Modern development could be seen everywhere, and Jerudong Park had become one of the most popular places for families to relax and enjoy themselves.  I also noticed that almost every family owned a car by then.  Brunei also gave us the wonderful opportunity to explore Southeast Asia.  Those who had a little extra money were able to travel to neighbouring countries and create even more unforgettable memories. 

 When my husband retired, it was very sad to leave behind so many dear friends.  We left Brunei in January 2005, taking with us a lifetime of wonderful memories. 

 Looking back today, I feel incredibly fortunate to have experienced life in Brunei during those special years.  It was much more than a military posting.  It was a place where lifelong friendships were made, families grew together, and countless precious memories were created.  Brunei will always hold a very special place in my heart.” 

Sunshine years – Liska (Brunei 1998-2000)

“Sunshine years – going back to where I was born and where I gave birth.” 

First in – Jane Channing (1964)

“I arrived in Seria in October 1964 three weeks after my husband, Mike, who had recently returned to 2/6GR following long leave.  At that time 2/6GR was the first and only Battalion to be based with families in Brunei, and there were no army quarters.  So, the twelve 6GR and QGE Officers’ families lived in accommodation provided by the Shell Oil company.  Seria then was a very large offshore oil field; the houses were bungalows on stilts and very comfortable.  

 Mike was, obviously, in and out of the jungle, and one particular memory I have is having to wait for him to have a few days R&R to re-light the hot water system at the house – this was a gas burner in the “garden” under a very tall metal cylinder made from used oil well casing!  It frequently went out, and the occasional snake could be found under the casing, and it was very difficult to re-light.  So, I got used to cold showers! 

On one occasion we went to see the RMO to confirm my pregnancy.  “Yes, that’s fine” he said, “come back in 6 months”!  I was eventually transferred to Shell’s medical facilities in nearby Kuala Belait where I saw the Doctor more frequently.

Life for me involved helping in the Gurkha Family lines and in the Nursery School for Children.  We were very fortunate to have the use of the Shell facilities at the Panaga Club with its very large pool and tennis and golf facilities.

Many years later, in the early 1990s, while living in Singapore, we returned to Brunei to show our daughter where she was born; the houses were still there and some of the former Shell hospital was still there in Kuala Belait, although the hospital itself had been re-located elsewhere.” 

My experience in Brunei - Mira Gurung (Brunei 2025-2026)

“The garrison community is very supportive and looks after each other.  When I did Olympic-distance triathlon to support Gurkha Welfare Trust last year and Climbed Mount Kinabalu to support The Gurkha Museum Trust this year, I received massive support and appreciation from the garrison community.  I am grateful to Brunei Garrison from bottom of my heart. 

My Brunei stay has been very memorable and as a family we were lucky to visit many countries, and experience loads of different cultures.” 

From Hong Kong to Brunei and back again – Louise Anderson (Brunei 1971-1974)

“My first impression of a posting to Brunei was not positive!  I had been enjoying a secretarial job working for a very kind boss in HQBG, Colonel Gregory, followed by Colonel Smith so I had to leave that.  John, who as Adjutant 6GR, was flown to Brunei with the CO in the advance party and I was to follow him on an LSL.  I shared a cabin with Gopal’s wife, the lovely Hem, her first baby Sangeeta and her niece/nanny which was fine.  Unfortunately, only a couple of days (if that) out of Hong Kong we were hit by a typhoon.  Sea sickness was universal, don’t mention the loos!  The ship’s doctor’s bunk bed snapped close trapping him during the storm.  So we headed back to Hong Kong.  I thought surely they’ll fly us now but no.  So back we went and a few days later arrived safely in Brunei on a white sandy beach.  

John met me and drove me to Sungei Udang and our house on the ‘patch’ which was actually rather lovely.  It was built on short stilts above ground with rooms around a central small garden open to the skies.  We inherited a Dayak maid which was a bonus.  The pluses were membership of the Panaga Club with its lovely swimming pool and friendly Shell personnel who seemed to live in air-conditioned luxury!  A further plus was the Istana which served as the Officers’ Mess which was adjacent to the beach and sea.  Sounds lovely but the sandflies were vicious and the sea rather grey and uninviting with Portuguese men of war.    

To keep me occupied I was employed by the CO (maybe encouraged by my father who was MGBG in Hong Kong at the time).  I was expected to take the minutes of the CO’s conferences in my rusty shorthand and scant knowledge of military terminology.  Thank goodness John was B Company Commander and so he ended up having to help me decipher what had been said!  We took on a puppy from a mangey looking mother in the lines.  I called him Caliban and I hope he enjoyed his short life with us till we left on leave.    

Being a lady of leisure for the most part meant it was a good time to have our first baby.  Luke’s 3-week early arrival coincided with John being in Hong Kong where he was umpiring an exercise.  My stepmother Christina kindly flew over to help me with this very small baby.  I remember John and Colin organised an impromptu drinks party with a punch when many people over-indulged but I won’t spill the beans but I retired to my bedroom with Luke who I was breast feeding.    

There were many fancy dress type parties in the Mess which were enjoyed by one and all.  Also Sunday night films screened on the terrace of the Istana.   

We were lucky enough to receive a Royal visit with the Royal Yacht Britannia coming to Bandar Sri Begawan with HM Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip and Princess Anne on board.  There was a reception at the High Commission to which we were invited.  

So all in all, good times for the most part.  We returned once on a short visit from Hong Kong because the Colonel of the Regiment was visiting the battalion.  I remember an early morning parade followed by an excellent Hunt Breakfast in the Officers’ Mess – not as much fun as the several fancy-dress parties we attended in the Officers’ Mess.  Other standout memories are of John returning from exercises in the Jungle having to undress in the shower because of the stench!!” 

A special place in my heart - Dilsuba Gurung

Translated from spoken Nepali

My name is Dilsuba Gurung, and I am the wife of Capt QGO Hitkaji Gurung, who served as the Unit Families Officer (UFO).

I first went to Brunei in 1991 and stayed in the Gurkha married quarters at Tuker Lines, Seria. Our quarter was located near the Families Welfare Centre, behind the hospital. Those years in Brunei remain some of my happiest memories.

During our tour of Brunei, I enjoyed exploring the country and travelling to neighbouring countries. I particularly remember the weather because, for me, it was neither too hot nor too cold, which made life there very comfortable. At that time, one of the best things to buy in Brunei was pure gold. I also enjoyed the food and shopping for clothing.

My husband organised various competitions and activities for the Gurkha families. These included handicraft competitions, sel roti and chutney competitions, ladies’ badminton, cross-country races, and many others. These events brought the families together and created a wonderful sense of friendship and community. One memory I especially cherish is winning the ladies’ badminton competition. I was very proud and my prize was presented by Mrs Sudha Dewan, the wife of BN 2IC Mani Kumar Rai. It is a small but special memory that has stayed with me over the years.

We completed our service in Brunei and retired from there in 1993.

The last time I visited Brunei was in 2010, almost twenty years after we had left. On that occasion, my daughter Usha Gurung and my grandchildren were living there with my son-in-law, Sgt Indra Kumar Gurung, who was serving with the Queen’s Gurkha Signals. I was amazed to see how much the country had changed. The old Gurkha married quarters at Tuker Lines line had changed considerably, as had many other places I remembered from my time there.

Brunei will always hold a special place in my heart.

-Dilsuba Gurung

Swimming in Brunei – Sudha Rai (1992-1994)

“While posted to Brunei with my husband, I noticed that many Gurkha wives were hesitant to use the outdoor pool with a male lifeguard on duty. I trained as a lifesaver and helped start the Gurkha Ladies’ Swimming Club. It was a pleasure to see many learn to swim and gain confidence to attain their Swimming Awards. We also enjoyed many hours having fun in the water. Everyone felt relaxed and comfortable together in the privacy and safe surroundings. I cherish these happy memories of friendship and community in Brunei’s tropical climate.” 

Our time in Brunei – Janice Luby (1982-1984)*

* Departed Heathrow for Brunei the day the Task Force sailed from Portsmouth to The Falkland Islands. 

 “Although for this posting we were attached to the Royal Brunei Armed Forces (RBAF), we continued our link with 6th Gurkha Rifles (6GR) by attending many events in Seria.  John was 6GR RMO, Burma Lines from 1979-1981.  My most memorable experience was meeting Talbahadur Pun during a presentation of the Battle of Mogaung.    

6GR married quarters were slightly different from those of 2nd Battalion, Royal Brunei Malay Regiment (RBMR).  However, generally life was very similar; an enclosed camp with an Olympic size swimming pool, tennis courts, etc.  Food shopping was easy with a NAAFI in Tutong Camp, but we could also drive to the local Tamu (covered market) to buy fresh vegetables (instead of NAAFI standard packets of frozen peas) plus other fresh produce.  On a regular basis the local Ibans would bring their produce with tropical fruits.  The small red skinned bananas had a strawberry taste (delicious!).” 

Really happy days – Kate Bourne (1992-1993, 2000-2001, 2008-2009)

“Brunei was a wonderful mix of teaching the Gurkha soldiers English, running through the Shell Patch, swimming at the Panaga, and cycling around Anduki.  The friendship with all members of the community, including Gurkha wives, Garrison families and soldiers lives on.  

 We were lucky to host visitors including the (now) King and Queen, 4 Star Generals, and family and friends from England.  A perfect posting for an active family who learned to dive, swim and cycle during the time spent in the Far East.  I loved the Panas running, the Panaga Highland Games, and chairing the SSAFA committee with the support of a wonderful team of Gurkha and British friends.” 

Vivid memories – Rachel Mackinlay (1971-1972)

“My second son was born in the Penaga Hospital in January 1972.  It was a very happy and easy birth.  My mother came out from UK to help me as my eldest son was only just one!  We were posted there from Hong Kong and travelled by LSL!  I was pretty busy with two babies and a very strange girl who helped me do the washing, etc!  However, I managed some expeditions in dugout canoes up some very jungly rivers!  The hornbills, one in particular, flew over our house every evening and there were wild pigs in the jungle which my husband shot, and we had very good pork, sharing it out with the Gurkhas.”  

Our wonderful time in Brunei by Rebecca Vaux (2016-2017)

It took me on a trip down memory lane looking through my Brunei pictures. Happy times.

The picture is Diwali/Holi, which took place at the temple on camp and was attended by the entire garrison I think. It ended with the wonderful throwing of powder paint- a truly unique and special event that I will always remember for its craziness.

In terms of life in Brunei, it was a unique experience- coping with the constant heat, never walking anywhere, always driving, the endless grass cutting that seemed to go on to keep the jungle at bay. But the adventures that we had in the jungle, paddling up the rivers in wooden canoes, staying in small huts deep in the trees, the many many hours at the Panaga club cooling off at the beautiful pool, chasing monitor lizards, eating yummy SE Asian food, and running along those deserted, palm fringed beaches. It really was an adventure and a wonderful experience. I would recommend to anyone who has the chance.

My memories of Brunei by Mrs Manikala Rai

My Memories of Brunei

 Brunei has always felt like a second home to me. I first lived there as a child when my father was serving with the Gurkha Reserve Unit (GRU). I studied at the Gurkha Children’s School from Year 1 to Year 3. Although I cannot remember everything from those days, I still have many happy memories of school life. I enjoyed taking part in dancing, sports, and many other school activities.

I returned to Brunei in 2010 after getting married. My husband was serving at Tuker Lines at the time. As a military spouse, I did not work, which gave me plenty of time to spend with my children and friends. I enjoyed buying fresh vegetables, eating fresh samosas from Ramdhani Shop, and watching the beautiful sunset over the South China Sea near Sultan Park in Seria.

One of the things I love most about Brunei is its friendly people and diverse culture. People from different backgrounds live together peacefully and respect each other’s traditions and beliefs. Through school, military life, and community events, I had the opportunity to meet people from many cultures and build lasting friendships. My son and daughter both miss Brunei very much, especially their time at Jerudong International School (JIS). Even today, they often say that it was the best time of their school life. They made many good friends and enjoyed a wonderful international learning environment.

I went back to Brunei again in 2018. The country had not changed very much, which made me feel at home straight away. One of the best things about living in Brunei was the opportunity to travel around Southeast Asia. We visited Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia, Bali, and many other places. We regularly went shopping in Gadong, Bandar Seri Begawan, and Tutong. We also enjoyed many weekend trips to Miri and Labuan.

Brunei gave us many wonderful memories. I enjoyed hiking, family activities, coffee mornings, regimental cultural events, and jungle safaris. One of the fun experiences was wearing my husband’s uniform during jungle activities and getting a small taste of military life. These experiences brought families together and created memories that will stay with me forever.

Overall, my time in Brunei has been very special and memorable. It is a place filled with happy memories, good friends, family adventures, and many funny stories that I still enjoy sharing today. I would also like to remember and thank our Gurkha forefathers who served with courage and dedication during the Borneo Confrontation from 1962 to 1966. Their sacrifice and commitment helped build the strong bond between Brunei and the Gurkha community. Because of their service, many Gurkha families, including mine, have had the privilege of living and serving in this beautiful country.

Mrs Manikala Rai W/O Major Genendra Rai 2 RGR

Best time of my life - Usha Gurung

It was my dad’s second posting in Brunei in 1991. He was a Gurkha Captain (QGO) in 6GR, before Hong Kong was handed over to the British. I had just graduated from high school, which at that time was called SLC (School Leaving Certificate). Before starting college, during that few-month gap, I moved to Brunei with my parents and younger sister. However, we had to leave my younger brother back in the hostel because of his education at an Army boarding school in Hong Kong.

I had heard lots of wonderful things about Brunei from my friends who had already been there for school vacations. It was my first time. The minute we landed at Brunei airport, an Army minibus came to collect us and took us to the quarter. My first thought was that it was nothing like the busy Hong Kong life we had just left behind.

Brunei was completely different from Hong Kong. It was slow and peaceful. Everything moved very slowly. There were fewer people, only a few cars on the road and only a few shopping places. The local bus cost one dollar to anywhere. Only a few Gurkha officers had their own cars, so everyone would use either the public bus or Army transport to get to medical appointments and other places. The nearest shopping town was Kuala Belait (KB). There was a small NAAFI inside the Army camp and an Indian shop called Ramdhani, where we could get all our daily food supplies. One Chinese man used to come door to door on a bicycle to sell noodles for just 20 cents. Those were the best noodles I have ever had, and I still remember how good they tasted.

There were lots of coconut and mango trees everywhere, with small houses and lots of wooden houses. The officer quarters were all bungalows but very comfortable inside. We had two coconut trees in front of our house, and the medical centre was just in front of our house. The sea was just a 10-minute walk from home. We used to ride our bikes to the nearby beach every day. It was the best time.

Daddy was posted there as a Families Officer (Welfare Officer), and we had a quarter next to Dad’s office. Daddy used to organise lots of family trips to different places, such as the zoo, museum, Jerudong Park, the Water Village and Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei. By that time, my brother was also with us for his summer school holiday. My dad had a white car, and he used to take us to different places and organise open barbecues. A place called Tutong was very popular. My dad also set up a nursery children’s training class for a few Army wives who were able and interested at the Mumong Community Centre.

I loved the way the locals dressed and their culture. The wooden houses, water villages, floating schools and shops on boats, riverside markets, everything was so colourful and vibrant. The beautiful mosques fascinated me. That was the first time I had seen such a big mosque and furniture like that. As a teenager, it was all very new to me. The Army quarter was an open area, so we made some local friends and used to enjoy playing volleyball with them. Back then, there was a trend of asking friends to fill in your autograph book and making pen pals. Even after leaving Brunei and going to college, those local friends stayed our pen pals. And, oh my God, the King of Brunei’s Sultan’s birthday was the grandest celebration in the whole nation. It was one of the best times and experiences of being in Brunei. In those days, we would go to the computer centre to do computer training, so my dad joined me at one of them in Kuala Belait (KB). Going on the one dollar bus every afternoon was another fun memory. I don’t know how much I learned, but I made a few more local friends through it. They all wore headscarves and covered themselves from head to toe. This was very new to me, but I had a Malaysian dress made and wore it. I loved it, and I still have that dress back home.

I had the best time of my life in Brunei with my parents and siblings. It was a blessing, and it was all because my dad was in the Gurkhas. I left the country with the best memories for my further studies. I promised myself that one day I would come back to this country again. I really loved Brunei.

I never thought I would be going back to the same country and place I had visited, but they say if you wish for something, your wish can come true to some extent.

I got married to a soldier. My husband was in the Gurkha Signals, and he had never been posted to Brunei. To my surprise, in 2008, he got a posting to Brunei to work in the Signals Troop as a technician.

After 17 years, I was in the same airport again, this time with my husband and kids. I had mixed feelings. Going to the same country one more time, but now not as an Army kid but as an Army spouse with different responsibilities, brought back so many memories. The minute I landed at the airport, I travelled back down memory lane. The airport was more modern, but just like before, an Army vehicle came to pick us up and take us to the Army quarter. But this time, it was with my better half and kids. The roads and surroundings were familiar, but the roads had become wider. The small wooden houses and quarters had been replaced by buildings for married accommodation. Luckily, our old quarters and Dad’s office were still there. The community centre was the same, and the medical centre was still there. The old swimming pool was being turned into something new. The roads were wider, but the village life, the floating village and Tutong were still the same. Ramdhani shop was as before.

I tried to find the old noodle salesman on his bicycle but couldn’t find him because he was already old back then.

My kids went to the school where I had studied as a teenager. The Army temple we used to go to was still there, and now I went there with my own family. The Mumong Community Centre, where I had done nursery school training, was now Hornbill Primary School. The Gurkha Children’s School had been renamed Hornbill School with new buildings. At the school, I got a job as a pre-school key worker within two months and taught there throughout our posting until we returned to the UK. It was just a beautiful coincidence.

Snakes in your backyard or on your front patio were always scary for me, but seeing a hornbill in front of your house early in the morning was something special. The sea was just within walking distance. The heavy rain, the hot weather, the floods after the rain, and seeing fish and crab swept up in front of your house were all part of life there. I loved going to the museum, fish market, KB and Bandar Seri Begawan with my kids again. Going to Miri, Malaysia, by your own car through the border and shopping there was even more fun.

The best experience was when my dad and mum came to visit us for a week. That was extremely joyful. I was going to the same places again, this time with my parents and my kids. Three generations together in the same place was very emotional. Taking pictures in front of Dad’s old office, our old quarter and the medical centre was amazing. Some of the medical staff, midwives and shop staff from Dad’s time were still there. Seeing my parents meet them again was very emotional.

My dad’s Chinese cleaning lady, Madam Lu, was still there. This time, she was a cleaning lady and caretaker at Hornbill School. She was very happy to see my kids and my parents. This time, I also made a few new friends for a lifetime. Madam Lu is probably one of the longest-serving and oldest civilians working for the Brunei Garrison. She could also speak Nepali.

I got the beautiful opportunity to visit all the beautiful places in Brunei and neighbouring countries. My kids and I love Brunei. It is a very peaceful country.

This time, I wish again to go and visit Madam Lu because she is getting old, and to visit the beautiful country one more time, maybe with my grandkids in the future…

-Usha Gurung

A leaving present that never fails to bring a smile to my face – Emma (2013-2014)

Brunei adventures - Kate J (2008/09, 2013, 2016/17, 2024/25)

“Travelling, exploring, chasing sunsets, discovering incredible food, new friends, new cultures.

Endless sweating, socialising, Panaga life, fancy dress, unforgettable parties, dancing and freezing cold cinemas.

Monitor lizards roaming in floods or on roads, hornbills perched on lampposts, monkeys peering through windows, and scorpions and cobras expertly dealt with by fearless Amahs or the Bomba. Jungle treks, family days, lagoon swims and sports competitions.

Long stretches of solo parenting, where battalion families became your own. Homecomings, reunions, celebrations, welcomes and farewells.

Mess nights, Mango Chicken feasts, sushi and fiercely competitive SelRoti Chutney competitions. UHT milk, secret ham stashes, incredible tropical fruit, bustling night markets and mocktails.

Lifelong friendships and truly unique shared experiences filled with laughter, resilience and the wonderful and sometimes frankly bizarre quirks of life in Brunei. It is an honour and a privilege to be part of the Gurkha family and to have called such a vibrant, colourful place our home several times.”

Years full of adventure - Isha Gurung

Growing up as the daughter of a Gurkha meant understanding from an early age that every new posting brought an entirely new chapter for the whole family: a new camp, a new school, a new country, and a completely different way of life all became part of our normal. Army children quickly learn the same resilience and adaptability expected of the soldiers themselves. We are taught to embrace change, settle in quickly, and make every place feel like home.

Arriving in Brunei, everything about Southeast Asia felt wonderfully unfamiliar. The tropical climate and intense humidity took some getting used to, and so much of the culture, landscape, and daily life was unlike anything we had experienced before. Yet within the Army camp, there remained the comforting rhythms of military family life that connected us wherever we were posted. Friday afternoons meant seeing the soldiers in uniform leaving work early for sports afternoons, the Army mums gathering for their regular coffee mornings, and, for us children, the excitement of spending our pocket money at the NAAFI. Those familiar traditions created a sense of belonging, no matter how far from home we were.

Beyond camp life, Brunei offered us unforgettable experiences, from long walks along beautiful sandy beaches to attending a boarding school filled with fellow ‘pad brats’ who understood exactly what it meant to grow up in the forces’ community. We were incredibly fortunate to immerse ourselves in a new culture, make lifelong friendships, and experience a unique way of life abroad that few children have the opportunity to enjoy.

Looking back, our years in Brunei were filled with adventure, laughter, and invaluable life lessons, and I will always be grateful that my parents’ service gave our family the chance to call such a remarkable place home.

-Isha Gurung

The reach of radio - Goma Rana (Brunei, 1981)

In 1991, I moved to Brunei with my husband after our marriage. It was my first experience as a Lahure’s wife. Being far away from my family in Nepal, everything felt new and unfamiliar. Whenever my husband was away on military exercises, I often felt lonely and isolated.

During that time, BFBS Radio became one of my closest companions. I even volunteered as a broadcaster, presenting Nepali music, news from Nepal, and local news from Brunei. Through the programme, I hoped to entertain and support other Gurkha wives who, like me, were feeling lonely and isolated while living far from home.